Charred Zucchini Salad

Combine lardo and 1/4 cup olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Cook until fat is melted and any meat bits are crisp and brown, about 10 minutes. Add vinegar, celery, 6 chiles, sugar, and lemon. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt. Reserve 6 tablespoons vinaigrette (store remaining vinaigrette refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks).

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add half of zucchini; cook, without stirring, 4 minutes or until zucchini is charred. Toss gently; cook 30 more seconds. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with remaining oil and zucchini.

Reheat reserved 6 tablespoons vinaigrette over medium heat; pour over zucchini. Add oregano, next 4 ingredients (through pepper), and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt; toss. Transfer to a serving dish; top with Parmesan and remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chiles.